9781350119864

1350119865

9781350231177

1350231177

9781350119871

9781350119888

"The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation"-- Back cover.

"This book is the first of its kind to study the impact that the Great War had on fashion, the fashion industry and civilians in a transnational context"-- Provided by publisher.

Timeline

Introduction / Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian

Part one. The reconfiguration of the international couture industry

1. Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-1917 / Mary Lynn Stewart

2. Boué Sœurs : "Compelled by the war" / Waleria Dorogova

3. "Gladdening the hearts of warriors" : The relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in the First World War / Georgina Ripley

4. Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future / Birgit Haase

5. Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture / Nele Bernheim

Part two. The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries

6. Dressed to quill : The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris / Emily Brayshaw

7. Between fashion and folk : Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War / Sara Hume

8. The lace industry in France and Belgium during the First World War / Marguerite Coppens

9. Industrial and homemade clothing production in the Netherlands : A neutral country during the First World War / Marta Kargól

10. Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti / Margherita Rosina

Part three. Problematic uniforms : Male and female experiences and secondhand trade networks

11. "Breeched, booted, and cropped": A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919 / Amy de la Haye

12. The French home front in 1914-1918 : An investigation into female workwear / Jérémie Brucker

13. Rushing to suit up : French aviation's adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-1916 / Guillaume de Syon

14. The spoils of war : Use and transformations of secondhand uniforms during the First World War in France / Manuel Charpy

Part four. Fashion in print : Questions of national fashion and gender

15. The gentleman turned "enemy" : Men's fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-1918 / Zsolt Mészáros

16. The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war / Burcu Dogramaci

17. The Italian fashion magazine Margherita : The war, women, and the call for a "Moda Italiana", 1914-1918 / Enrica Morini

18. Le Flambeau's fashion discourse during the First World War : Towards a retrograde femininity? / Nigel Lezama

19. Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch magazine, 1915 / Andrea Kollnitz.

Fashion > History > 20th century.

Women's clothing > History > 20th century.

World War, 1914-1918 > Social aspects.