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Fashioning the Nineteenth Century Habits of Being 3
Title
Fashioning the Nineteenth Century [electronic resource] : Habits of Being 3 / Cristina Giorcelli and Paula Rabinowitz, editors.
ISBN
081668751X
9780816687510
9780816687466 (hardback)
9780816687473 (pb)
Published
Minneapolis : University of Minnesota Press, 2014. (Baltimore, Md. : Project MUSE, 2014)
Physical Description
1 online resource (pages cm)
Local Notes
Access is available to the Yale community.
Notes
Description based on print version record.
Access and use
Access restricted by licensing agreement.
Summary
" In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion--once the province of the well-to-do--began to make its way across class lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of the century, style also moved from the streets to the parlor. The third in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, Fashioning the Nineteenth Century focuses on this transformative period in an effort to show how certain items of apparel acquired the status of fashion and how fashion shifted from the realm of the elites into the emerging middle and working classes--and back. The contributors to this volume are leading scholars from France, Italy, and the United States, as well as a practicing psychoanalyst and artists working in fashion and with textiles. Whether considering girls' school uniforms in provincial Italy, widows' mourning caps in Victorian novels, Charlie's varying dress in Kate Chopin's eponymous story, or the language of clothing in Henry James, the essays reveal how changes in ideals of the body and its adornment, in classes and nations, created what we now understand to be the imperatives of fashion. Contributors: Dagni Bredesen, Eastern Illinois U; Carmela Covato, U of Rome Three; Agnes Derail-Imbert, École Normale Superieure/VALE U of Paris, Sorbonne; Clair Hughes, International Christian University of Tokyo; Bianca Iaccarino Idelson; Beryl Korot; Anna Masotti; Bruno Monfort, Universite of Paris, Ouest Nanterre La Defense; Giuseppe Nori, U of Macerata, Italy; Marta Savini, U of Rome Three; Anna Scacchi, U of Padua; Carroll Smith-Rosenberg, U of Michigan. "-- Provided by publisher.
Variant and related titles
Project MUSE - UPCC 2014 Complete.
Project MUSE - UPCC 2014 Literature.
UPCC book collections on Project MUSE.
Format
Books / Online
Language
English
Added to Catalog
November 17, 2014
Series
Habits of Being ; 3
Bibliography
Includes bibliographical references.
Contents
Machine generated contents note:
Contents
Preface and Acknowledgments
Clothing, Dress, Fashion: An Arcade
Introduction: Fashioning a Century
Cristina Giorcelli
1. Psychoanalytic Views of Cross-Dressing and Transvestism
Bianca Iaccarino Idelson
2. Our Job Is to Create Beauty: A Personal Memoir of La Perla
Anna Masotti
3. Modernity Clothing: Birthing the Modern Atlantic/Birthing the Modern Republic
Carroll Smith-Rosenberg
4. Garment of the Unseen: The Philosophy of Clothes in Carlyle and Emerson
Giuseppe Nori
5. An Emblem of All the Rest: Wearing the Widow's Cap in Victorian Literature
Dagni Bredesen
6. Clothing the Marmorean Flock: Sartorial Historicism and The Marble Faun
Bruno Monfort
7. Florence
Beryl Korot
8. Accessories to the Crime in What Maisie Knew
Clair Hughes
9. Costume and Form: D'Annunzio and Mutable Appearances
Marta Savini
10. Shawls Redefine Womanhood in American Literature, 1850s-1920s
Anna Scacchi
11. A Lovely Little Coffee-Colored Dress: Education, Female Identity, and Dress at the End of the Nineteenth Century
Carmela Covato
12. Gender and Power: Dressing "Charlie"
Cristina Giorcelli
13. Imaginative Habits: Fantasies of Undressing in The Ambassadors
Agnes Derail-Imbert
Coda: Seen and Obscene
Paula Rabinowitz
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